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toric Village St-Paul quarter of the Marais, Ashkenazi fare usually available at Pletzl ea-
plat du jour at lunch is ¬ 12. olives provided on tables and at the bar.
serves haute cuisine à l italienne, and teries. Platters containing four to 10 differ-
there s an excellent list of Italian wines ent meze (such as falafel, hummus, purées
by the glass (¬ 3.50 to ¬ 12). It s no secret of aubergine and chickpeas) cost from ¬ 12
LE SOUK Map pp94 5 North African ¬ ¬ GUILLAUME Map pp92 3 Modern French ¬ ¬
that this is one of the few Italian wine to ¬ 26. The takeaway window sells falafel
01 49 29 05 08; www.lesoukfr.com, in French; 01 44 54 20 60; 32 rue de Picardie, 3e; starters
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bars in Paris to take its vino seriously, so in pita for ¬ 4.50 and there s also an excel-
1 rue Keller, 11e; starters ¬ 7.50-13, mains ¬ 16-21; ¬ 8-14.50, mains ¬ 15-19; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner
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book ahead. Pasta dishes (¬ 13 to ¬ 23) are lent bakery attached. Chez Marianne s set
menus ¬ 20 & ¬ 27; lunch & dinner to 11.30pm to 11pm Mon-Sat daily; Temple or République
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good, as is the generous tavola antipasti menus include a number of vegetarian
Tue-Sat; Ledru Rollin Some of the starters at this sophisticated
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(antipasto buffet table). The cocotte du jour options.
We like coming here almost as much for venue near place de la République make
(casserole of the day; ¬ 13) is served with a
the décor as the food  from the clay pots an ideal light lunch  try the tomato Tatin
glass of wine.
overflowing with spices on the outside to and the samoussa d escargots (samosa with
PARIS MAIN D OR
the exuberant (but never kitsch) Moroccan snails)  and there s a two-course formule (set
Map pp94 5 French, Corsican ¬ ¬
interior. And the food? As authentic as the menu) for ¬ 15.50. You can eat either in the
LES SANS CULOTTES
01 44 68 04 68; 133 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine,
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decoration, notably the duck tajine and front bar or in the spacious dinning room
Map pp94 5 French, Bistro ¬ ¬
11e; starters ¬ 6.50-16.10, mains ¬ 13-19.50, menu
vegetarian couscous. Be warned: mains behind. There s a lovely art gallery on the
01 48 05 42 92; www.lessansculottesfr.com, in ¬ 12; lunch & dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat; Ledru
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are enormous, so this might have to be a 1st floor and, if you re a group (something
French; 27 rue de Lappe, 11e; starters ¬ 9-15, mains Rollin
one-dish meal. unusual in Paris), there s a huge round table
¬ 14-20, menus ¬ 18 & ¬ 23; lunch & dinner to The unprepossessing, cafélike  Paris Golden
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available for seating at least a dozen people.
11pm Tue-Sun; Bastille Hand serves authentic Corsican dishes  a
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You wouldn t cross Paris to eat at Sans Cu- surprisingly elusive cuisine in Paris. Sturza
LE TROISIÈME BUREAU
lottes  the place takes its name from the preti (spinach and fine brocciu cheese; ¬ 8)
Map pp94 5 French, Bistro ¬ ¬ CAFÉ DE L INDUSTRIE
working-class  men without breeches who and traditional omelette with brocciu and
Map pp94 5 French, Café ¬ ¬
01 43 55 87 65; 74 rue de la Folie Méricourt,
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fought in the French Revolution  but in jambon sec (dried ham, matured for two
11e; starters ¬ 7.50-11.50, mains ¬ 15.50-21, menus 01 47 00 13 53; 16 & 17 rue St-Sabin, 11e; start-
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a neighbourhood that has become some- years) are some of the appetisers on the
¬ 11.50 & ¬ 13.50 (lunch only); lunch & dinner to ers ¬ 5.10-6.90, mains ¬ 8.90-19; 9.30am-2am
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what trendy in recent years it s a comfort- menu. For mains, favourites include the
midnight daily; Oberkampf daily; Bastille
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ing reminder of the past. The interior, with tian de veau aux olives (veal ragout) and the
An interesting clientele frequents this pub- This popular café-restaurant with neocolo-
frosted glass, huge zinc bar, ornate ceil- caprettu arrustini (roast kid). Pasta dishes
cum-bistro, where you can read, listen to nial décor has two locations directly oppo-
ings and wooden floors, positively glows come in at about ¬ 10.50.
music, do a little work on the laptop, tickle site one another. It s a pleasant space and
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lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EATING MARAIS & BASTILLE
EATING MARAIS & BASTILLE
the perfect spot to meet a friend instead This  country inn , complete with its red
(lunch only), ¬ 16.50-30; lunch & dinner to 11pm mains ¬ 14-17, menus ¬ 10.50-13.50; lunch &
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of at one of the crowded cafés or bars in gingham curtains, offers delightful, simple
daily; Oberkampf dinner to 10.30pm Mon-Sat, brunch 11am-5pm Sun;
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Bastille. Food is competitively priced but and inexpensive French food, including côte
Things Korean  especially films  seem to Châtelet
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not always up to scratch; to avoid disap- be taking the world by storm these days This Indian-inspired vegan restaurant is a
de bS
uf (side of beef; ¬ 40), which is cooked
pointment stick with the simple entrées or on an open fire and prepared by the original
and Paris is no exception. This place not far welcome addition to the hubbub of the
just graze off the fabulous dessert table (¬ 4 owners daughter and her husband. If you
from place de la République has excellent Marais. Food is actually quite good; avoid
to ¬ 5.90). arrive early, choose to sit at the farmhouse
barbecues on offer, but we particularly like the mock-meat dishes like the devilish-
table, right next to the fireplace. It s a jolly,
the bibimbab (¬ 12 to ¬ 18), rice served in a sounding seitan (wheat gluten)  steak and
truly Rabelaisian evening. The plat du jour is
sizzling pot topped with thinly sliced beef go for a thalli, a sampling tray of Indian
CAFFÉ BOBOLI Map p98 9 Italian ¬ ¬
a snip at ¬ 12.50
(or other meat) and cooked with preserved goodies for ¬ 15. For drinks try the mango
01 42 77 89 27; www.caffeboboli.com; 13 rue
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vegetables, then bound by a raw egg and lassi or spiced tea. Weekend brunch is ¬ 21.
du Roi de Sicile, 4e; starters ¬ 10-13, mains ¬ 14-
flavoured with chilli-laced soy paste. Staff, No meat, no alcohol, no guilt.
CHEZ NÉNESSE Map pp98 9 French, Bistro ¬ ¬
18.50; lunch Tue-Sun, dinner to 11pm Mon-Sat;
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in traditional Korean dress, are welcoming.
St-Paul 01 42 78 46 49; 17 rue de Saintonge, 3e; starters
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Affordable Italian fare in the heart of the ¬ 4-16, mains ¬ 10-18; lunch & dinner to 10.30pm AUBERGE NICOLAS FLAMEL
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Marais? Not as preposterous a notion as LE CLOWN BAR Map pp94 5 French, Bistro ¬ ¬ Mon-Fri; Filles du Calvaire Map pp92 3 French ¬ ¬
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you might think with the advent of this The atmosphere at this bistro is very  old
01 43 55 87 35; 114 rue Amelot, 11e; starters 01 42 71 77 78; www.auberge-nicolas-flamel
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small restaurant run by two young Floren- ¬ 7.50-10.50, mains ¬ 15-18, menu ¬ 15/18 (week- .fr, in French; 51 rue de Montmorency, 3e; starters [ Pobierz caÅ‚ość w formacie PDF ]